Comici Route on the North Face of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo
One of the Most Legendary Climbing Routes in the Dolomites
The Comici Route on the North Face of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (2999 m) is one of the most significant alpine climbing classics in the Dolomites and a milestone in mountaineering history. In August 1933, Emilio Comici along with Giuseppe and Angelo Dimai ascended the north face over two bivouacs – at the time, likely the most difficult climbing route in the world. Although Comici did not climb the route free at that time, he used very few pitons, leading experts to believe that he had already freed sections at the 7th grade difficulty.
In 1937, Comici completed the first solo ascent – a testament to his extraordinary skill, especially as he later complained about the now “too many pitons.” The first official free ascent of the Comici Route was achieved in 1978 by Droyer and Tugaye.
The route spans the impressive North Face of the Cima Grande and consists of 16 pitch climbs with difficulties ranging from VII UIAA to V+/A1. The climb demands technical skills, endurance, and alpine experience. With an experienced, certified mountain guide, the ascent becomes not only safe but an unforgettable adventure.
The north face impresses not only with its climbing challenges but also with breathtaking views of the Dolomitesand the surrounding peaks of the Sexten Dolomites. This route is ideal for experienced alpinists seeking a historical alpine challenge and the legendary atmosphere of the Cima Grande up close.