Ortler Ascent with Mountain Guide – via the Normal Route

A thrilling alpine tour on the Ortler – the highest peak in South Tyrol!

Climbing the Ortler (3,905 m), the highest mountain in South Tyrol, is one of the most impressive mountaineering experiences in the Eastern Alps. Changing weather conditions, high-alpine terrain and the considerable altitude make the ascent via the Normal Route from the Payer Hut a true challenge. With the support of a certified mountain guide, this demanding climb turns into a safe and unforgettable adventure.

The best season for the Ortler ascent via the Normal Route is from mid-June to the end of September. Particularly recommended are mid-June to the end of July as well as September, when conditions are generally more stable.

Tour Itinerary

Meeting point: Arrival at the Payer Hut on the day before the tour, no later than 5:30 pm.

• Approach: From the Langenstein car park, follow trail 4A and 4 or directly via trail 4 to the Tabaretta Hut (approx. 1.5–2 hours), then continue in about 1.5 hours to the Payer Hut.

• Tip: A slow and steady ascent to the Payer Hut (3,029 m) is highly recommended to ensure better acclimatization and enough energy for summit day.

• Hut reservation is organized.

Evening: Dinner together, equipment check and detailed tour briefing.

Breakfast & start: Depending on hut arrangements, breakfast is served at 4:30 or 5:00 am, followed by departure about half an hour later.

Ascent: 3–4 hours via the Ortler Normal Route to the summit.

Descent: Return to the Payer Hut around midday, then descent to Sulden in approx. 2.5 hours.

Route Description

The Normal Route on the Ortler can be divided into two main sections: the first third across rock, the remainder across snow and ice. From the Payer Hut, the rope is tied in right from the start.

The route begins easily, heading west to a small notch, which requires about 2 m of downclimbing. From there, the trail leads south over another path to the first climbing section (downclimb).

This is followed by alternating hiking and easy climbing sections, in part with short downclimbs (up to UIAA grade II), leading to the so-called Wandl, equipped with a chain (via ferrata) for secure passage.

From there, the trail continues along a ridge to the crux of the rock section, the so-called “Weiberschreck” (UIAA III+), a short step that can be climbed safely with correct foot placement and guidance. Another ridge leads to a westward traverse, ending with a short via ferrata section onto the glacier.

At this point, crampons are usually fitted. After a short break, the climb continues – depending on conditions – on snow and ice, with steep switchbacks and short ascents, up to the Ortler bivouac (3,316 m), which is bypassed on the left. After another short rest, the route leads over the “Stickl” (steep slope) to the broad Ortlerferner glacier and from there without difficulty to the summit of the Ortler.

The descent follows the same way back along the Normal Route.